Andrew Guard

2018 Cidre Brut de Rue Brut, Cidrerie du Vulcain

Something special; Assembly of over 50 varieties from Rue: Kermerrien (bitter), Reinette Ananas (acidic), and Douce Moen (bitter sweet) from Jacques' newest organic orchard located in Rue (north of Lausanne), planted in 2013. This has quite the complexity including oriental delights such as saffron and spices, in the mouth it's sapid and dry but has a lovely mineral tension that drives on the finish. The overall feeling is that I get from drinking it is happiness. We don't have much but it's worth getting some bottles for that contemplative or reflective moment.

The first taste of a Vulcain cider will usually cause disbelief. They are so… pretty! And so different.

Dry to moderately sweet, with a discreet salty finish, the different blends or individual varieties speak so clearly yet so delicately —watercolors, not oil paintings. Essentially, these ciders are unmistakably Alpine: at their core is transparency, levity, and altitude; the same cool wind that runs through most Alpine wines; the freshness of a mountain stream.

And they stand apart, different from French or Basque ciders, with less to none of that animal, fermentive character.

Jacques Perritaz, the man behind La Cidrerie du Vulcain, works exclusively with the local orchard fruits of Fribourg: ancient varieties of apples, pears and quinces grown on high-branched, untreated trees. The Fribourg terroir, with its cool climate and diverse soils, provides for beautiful nuances in the aromatic expression of the Vulcain ciders, an effect that is only enhanced by the old age of the high-branched trees.

The fruit is bought directly from the producers, and Jacques often harvests himself. By creating a buzz and demand for his phenomenal cuvées, the goal is to valorize Fribourg’s older, high-branched orchards that otherwise risk abandonment. Jacques hopes to preserve the inherently rich natural environment of Fribourg that is essential to maintaining biodiversity. This movement has been otherwise promoted by the FSP (Swiss Landscape Foundation). Taken from beckywasserman.com