Andrew Guard

2016 IGT Colline Savonesi Rosso 'Pulin', Azienda Agricola Bruna

This wine is the result of a project aimed at rediscovering and promoting the Granaccia, a grape variety native to Liguria and similar to the Grenache of the Southern Rhône Valley. It is grown together with Syrah and Barbera grapes.

Again, this is quite something. Fermentation is in tank and them elevage in barrels - a mix of 1/3 new, 1/3 second use and 1/3 third use. The colour is deep ruby and aromatically it enchants with pure cassis, strawberry and mediterranean garrigue. In the mouth it is full and sleek, polished and pure - full of fruit and promise. The balance and purity suggest this has a long life in front of it, for the moment though it is gorgeously rich and long. Top 

Established in 1970 by Riccardo Bruna, Azienda Agricola Bruna is a tiny 7.5 hectare estate consisting of a few specific vineyard plots, all planted on terraced vineyards hewn out of the mountainside at about 250 meters above sea level and only 15km from the Mediterranean. This area is very beautiful and remote and is known for its production of olives, cherries and aromatic herbs, such as rosemary, thyme and sage.

Bruna is currently run by Riccardo’s daughter Francesca and her husband, Roberto. Having spent some time with both of them it is easy to see why the quaity of the wines is so exceptional - there is careful thought, attention to detail, reflection and respect evident in all they do. The estate has worked organically since 2009.

These are rare but very wonderful wines.