Andrew Guard

2016 Chardonnay 'Vieilles Vignes', Domaine Overnoy

One of the confusing and intriguing things about Jura wines is the technique of sous-voile, or under-the-veil wine making, a style in which wine is intentionally oxidized. The barrels are not entirely filled to begin with, and then are not topped up as the wine evaporates and seeps into the wood. A beneficial layer of yeast (the veil) is encouraged, somewhat akin to the flor in Sherry. In the hands of a good producer, like Overnoy, sous-voile wines are completely delicious.

Aged for two years in barrel, the sweet perfumed fruit gives way to nutty, oxidised tones that are intentional and at delicate levels that don’t overwhelm the fruit. The greatest pleasure comes from the palate, which is incredibly complex and downright moreish. Vibrant yet soft in texture, with saline acidity that was perfectly judged at picking time, everything is in harmony. A superb wine to have at the table

The first thing you notice is the name, Overnoy. This one is not to be confused with the legendary estate in Pupillin although Guillame's Grandfather was a brother to Pierre Overnoy and their Poulsard is propagated from cuttings from Arbois-Pupillin.

This estate is located in Orbagna, in the south of the Jura in the region of Sud Revermont. They are not too far away from Rotalier, home to the famous estates of Labet and Ganevat.

This is an estate to watch, the talent is there, as is passion and support. I feel lucky to have discovered this estate before it's inevitable rise to stardom!