Andrew Guard

2017 Beaujolais-Villages, Kevin Descombes

This comes from vines planted right outside the border of the Brouilly appellation on a nice steep slope with the a Northerly aspect, lovely terroir. This has the charm and ease of the Kéké but with more complexity, zest and drive. Having had another look at this earlier this year, I just could not pass it up. I saw it on many good wine lists around France and took a bottle with me on the road. It is drinking quite superbly and I think once people get on it, it will go very quickly!   

Kewin “Kéké” Descombes is the son of legendary winemaker Georges Descombes and half-brother of Damian Coquelet He made his first wine under his own name in 2013, when he was 21. His approach is similar to his father’s (organic farming, semi-carbonic maceration, indigenous yeasts, minimal or no sulphur).

Georges has been handing over some parcels to his twentysomething son Kewin, who clearly has his father’s knack and is an understudy of Fred Cossard, say no more ! These are terrific wines from old vines planted in the high country of Morgon near Vermont, the family’s hamlet. They all have real presence and depth in the glass – cool, succulent fruit and a billowing perfume, a sappy stony mouthfeel with lovely sinewy length. Very impressive!