When visiting winemakers in Alsace, it rarely happens that a vigneron spontaneously mentions any nearby colleagues, and it is good manners of an importer to not bring up the subject. But I now understand that there is great admiration of the Meyer-Fonné among his Alsace colleagues, and especially admired is the technical skill that Félix Meyer possesses. This brilliant 12 ha domaine exploits vineyards in seven communes.
As a visitor, the skill and dedication immediately becomes obvious. At Meyer-Fonné, there is not one single wine that falls out of context that is dull or unbalanced. All are characterized by uncompromising quality. The flavours are always intense, but never without harmony.
“Félix Meyer is a rising star in Alsace and has an evident instinct for his craft. He is the third generation in his family to be making wine since his grandfather founded the domaine in the late 19th century. Since taking over in 1992, Félix has already left his own mark, modernizing equipment in the winery, developing export sales, and now expanding the family’s holdings in many of Alsace’s great vineyard sites, including several grand crus.
It’s all about the details at Meyer-Fonné, with an emphasis on tradition and respect for terroir. The winery and family home is in the village of Katzenthal, known for its distinctive granite soils. Meyer is a master at the art of blending and astutely applies this skill in mixing the wine from various parcels into complex, balanced cuvées. He also believes in raising his wines on fine lees in large, older foudres, as was the tradition in Alsace. All of Meyer’s bottlings are characterized by stunning aromatics and a signature backbone of minerality and nerve. Racy and elegant, his wines are difficult to resist young but have all the right qualities for the cellar. For aromatic and textural seductiveness, no one in Alsace can top Meyer-Fonné.” Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant